Looking for Autumn: The Laurel Highlands

My wife and I went looking for autumn this past weekend, and we found it in the Laurel Highlands. What a beautiful place, and only 2 ½ hours away. Located is Pennsylvania southeast of Pittsburgh, I mostly knew this region through the signs we saw on the Pennsylvania Turnpike on our way to somewhere else. We visited the outskirts of the area on a trip to Ligonier two years ago and fell in love with the place. This year we jumped head first in the heart of the region.

The main artery through the Laurel Highlands is Route 40, better known as the National Road. This was the first federally funded road built around 1811 beginning in Cumberland, Maryland, to all points west. The toll booth is still there. Although parts of Route 40 are now freeway, the old road is maintained for those looking for scenery instead of speed.

As beautiful as Route 40 is, the true heart of the Laurel Highlands is State Route 381 (merging into State Route 711 north to Ligonier), and its smaller tributary roads, which wind through some of the most mountainous regions and visually stunning scenery you will see in this part of the country. It is spectacular, especially dressed in the fall colors. You are completely surrounded by red, gold, and orange everywhere you look. The vistas are breathtaking as you climb up and down the mountains. Pull offs at various locations allow to appreciate just how high up you are. Civilization is a long way off with very few residences along the road. Some of the towns along the way are Farmington, Somerset, Uniontown, and Donegal.

The place is proliferated with state parks. This area is for folks who love the outdoors. This trip, we toured around Ohiopyle State Park located along the Youghioheny (Pr: Yuckuhheny) River. There are several waterfalls to visit, and miles of hiking trails. The centerpiece is the white water rafting and kayaking operation that is attractive to those less faint of heart than me. These guys are rugged…and wear “gear”!!!

Up the pike is Fallingwater, the Frank Lloyd Wright architectural masterpiece built for the Kaufmann family in the 1930’s. You need a reservation to even drive onto the grounds, so plan in advance. The grounds are as spectacular as the house. It is well worth the trip.

The ride along Route 40 gives you a different feel, as several stone houses and buildings are located along the way. The foliage is different, and parts of the road are canopied by evergreens giving it a distinct feeling, perhaps of Bavaria, as you drive along the road. We drove Route 40 all the way to Cumberland, worth a trip in its own right.

There are several rustic inns and motels located beginning in Uniontown and along Route 40. These are old places and look intriguing. I would investigate them in advance. Rely on tripadvisor.com.

There are two granddaddy resorts in the area. The one most familiar to folks from the Youngstown area is Seven Springs, located about 40 miles from Ohiopyle and known for its skiing.

But we stayed at Nemacolin. This is a spectacular resort located on 3500 acres along Route 40 just east of Farmington. Not too many people from here know about Nemacolin. It is akin to the Greenbrier in West Virginia. It is owned by the Hardy family, the founders of 84 Lumber. Consisting of three different hotels located on the property, this is a full service resort complete with a spa, shooting academy, golf course, Waterford chandeliers as far as the eye can see, a golf academy, wild animals, $45 million worth of art and bronzes, and both a Five Diamond Hotel and Five Diamond Restaurant. They do everything but chew your food. For this luxury, bring lots and lots and lots of money. Check the website, and splurge for a weekend.

To sum up: spectacular scenery; bring hiking shoes; bring lots of money if you want to bathe in luxury; and leave the Prius at home. Too many steep hills. The Laurel Highlands is on my “to do” again list…just as soon as I save up a few years worth of rubles.

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